I have a 76 ford 1/2 ton with a crappy carb. Anyone know of a carb available that doesn't have all the polution crap that would be a good upgrade? I prefer an original Ford unit and not Edlebrock or Holley. thank you
ok... 1976 Ford F100 1/2 ton P/U 2WD:Available engines6 Cylinders B 4.9L 1BL OHV8 Cylinders G 5.0L 2BL OHV (found in 62% of 1976 Ford F100 1/2 ton P/U 2WD)8 Cylinders J 7.5L 4BL OHV (found in 01% of 1976 Ford F100 1/2 ton P/U 2WD)8 Cylinders M 6.4L 4BL OHV (found in 01% of 1976 Ford F100 1/2 ton P/U 2WD)8 Cylinders Y 5.9L 2BL OHV (found in 36% of 1976 Ford F100 1/2 ton P/U 2WD)a little help in as to which engine you have and if you have to have your truck smog tested...i have a 76 E250 with a 460. i noticed that there are dozens of different vacuum diagrams for the various motors.. swapping carbs may not cure your issue.. throwing away all the smog equipment may not work either.. list your exact problems and issues with what's going on right now... i am very familiar with most ford carbs... and i drop through here each evening looking for posts...
Oops... I have a 6 cylinder and the carb has a lot of issues. I've rebuilt it a couple of times. I want a simpler carb like earlier ones. I have no smog requirements and it's only driven in the summer (I live in upstate New York). thanks, any help would be appreciated.
earlier carbs are going to be the ford F-1 carb.. and that was used until the 1969 model year on 240 and 300 motors.. as far as i know... ford went to the carter was better... probably cheeper also..which carb do you have.. the carter YF or the holley 1940??? i have rebuilt a LOT of carbs in my lifetime... these are not the easiest to adjust when rebuilding..especially when they have been taken apart a few times.. but if its the proper calibration for your motor.. and not for a 200 or a 250.. please post the carb number... either ford or holley or carter..please describe your exact issues... i might be able to help you fix it.. i understand carbs really well... i might even have one of these in my pile of broken cores to take apart and take good pictures of..carbs that came on 300 motors..65 to 69 ford F-170 to 76 carter YFalso holley 1940.. you do have the much more expensive option...swapping to a clifford 4 barrel intake.. this gives you a holley flange to work with..so you could install any number of different carbs... you could install a motorcraft 2100/2150 if you can find a smaller one.. you could install a 390 holley... a demon jr carb.. there are a bunch of 2 barrels you could also install with an adaptor plate..i did this on clifford six 4 bbl intake on a 68 F100 for a friend.. i converted it to a cable operated throttle by finding a 77 or 78 F series pick up.. it had the proper gas pedal that used a throttle cable.. with the bracket on the engine side of the firewall... i grabbed a throttle cable off a V8 econoline van.. probably a mid 80s... as it was NICE and long.. i also grabbed a throttle cable bracket off a 200 six in a 78 to 82 fairmont or mustang.. i folded that and mounted it on the manifold to engine studs to give me a proper bracket to hold the end of the throttle cable.. this was the bracket that went from the carb mounting stud over the top of the valve cover and down to the coil bracket on the side of the 200 six motor..
Alright, the jig is up......Actually this is for a good friend. (I know you've heard that before) I am actually a retired senior fleet mechanic w/an associates in automotive tech. plus many other schools. I have a serious time issue (taking care of my disabled wife, brother, and helping out with my mother in law that has dimentia. At any rate, he went through the carb, and at first it was fine, but soon (very soon) it had idling issues. apparently not real smooth. Someone told him to get an older carb to replace it with. I was just trying to take the shorter way out without me spending a lot of time with his truck. I thought it was pretty straight forward for him, but apparently not the case here. I really appreciate your help and I will get all the carb info from him. Listening to you it may be as simple as making sure he set it up properly and for that engine. Living in Upstate N.Y. his truck will be in his garage until summer, so I'll have more time to help him out. Your assistance (especially when I get all the symptoms, manuf. and numbers) is greatly appreciated.
lets make it easier..have him take the carb off ... shake the fuel out... take it to you with a SEALED carb kit...you should be able to check the carb... if you need to replace anything.. you will have the parts.. if the kit stays sealed.. it can be returned .. it really sounds like he did not get the base plate to float bowl screws tight enough...you can have him grab the air horn... wiggle.. the carb should NOT wiggle.. should be nice and tight without crushing the gaskets..i could not imaging parking something for the winter.. los angeles.. has nice weather all the time. usually.. it did have THUNDER showers a few days ago.. hail.. flooding.. cars floating.. thats storm as a type is moving east through texas and the mid west.. that massive storm.. took 45 minutes to blow through.. i have something i should share.. i have friends who go mudding .. they spray the rocker panels and wheels with NON STICK COOKING Spray after the wash and dry their trucks before heading into the mud.. funny... the mud falls off.. and nobody can understand why until they share the secret.. spray it on the hood and roof or wipe it on.. without getting it on the windows... snow slides off. properly applied rain x might work on the windows if its done when they are warm .. sitting in the sun and totally clean and dry. so no moisture is trapped under the rain x.i will drop through.. as i have done.. if you identify which carb.. you might also be able to google the model type... you might find some repair info thats not covered in the kit instructions.. please use care to count the turns of the idle screw OR look how far is is into the idle feed port .. sometimes you can see it..... and check the position of the throttle blade with the choke held open the fast idle cam off.. so you can see how far open the throttle was set... this changes when the carb is taken apart sometimes do to the shift between the sections..
I appreciate the help. Looks like me taking the time to go through it myself is the best bet! Like you said, or rather referred to.....most non mechanic types seem overlook some of the simplest things that make the greatest difference in how things work. I'm not trying to offend anyone here, just an obvervation from many years of dealing with things like this. I should've just taken the time to do it myself from the beginning. I grew up in Palmdale so I understand the weather issues. I also miss not being able to drive my 69 all year long!
i know palmdale well... i have had quite a few carbs delivered to me.. but not recently.. have him do the wiggle test...don't forget that truck has a lot of vacuum hoses run around the engine bay... could also have a leaking EGR valve seat..