Not sure what happened to all the pictures I just posted. I'll retry this.
I'll get back to this, somethings not working out here. Sorry fellas I'll figure this out later.
Ok fellas, I hit the wrong link code in photobucket. Sorry......Happy New Year. My first post here was a request for information on where I could find a chrome trim slip cover that goes over the division bar between the wing and door windows. I made several calls with no luck and pondered over this for several months. I knew vendors sold this product at one time because I saw it recently in a 10 year old Chevy Duty catalouge. I can't see paying big $$$ for rechroming. Well ten years ago I should have bought them. I couldn't find them. I started rebuilding these assemblies nearly a year ago, I already had new bars, rubbers and rivet kits. I set out to make my own from stainless.
I been busy working on fabricating a rotisserie to work on my wife's Ghia. I wish I would had made it when I built the '57. I got the rotisserie done and put the Ghia in it. I got most all the rust cut out of it and there isn't much left now. I think I have enough parts to get it back but finishing the truck and having this small sheetmetal part holding me up was annoying.If anyone is just popping on the site you can see more pictures on a thread named "RESTORE FOR DUMMIES". I posted most of the bodywork and painting there. All of this build has been done at home. Click on the "SEARCH" tab on this page and type in "RESTORE FOR DUMMIES" to get back to the other pictures if interested.I bought a 2' x 3' piece of stainless from a local vendor and set out to get this done. The sheet wasn't polished but thin enough to form as needed.I started by sheering the pieces alittle heavy in size and forming on the box and pan break. The second bend had to be bent over itself and the box and pan only bent so far as shown in the pic.I had to place the part into a loose vise with a micro fiber towel and finish the bend working it with a uerethane mallet.This picture shows the first two bends compared to the original.I placed the new part over the division bar and marked for the next bend.This shows the marks as shown down the part.This shows the new part (right) compared to the original.The part fits nicely and the outer rolls in the division bar conceal the edge of the stainless nicely.I polished the parts with my HF wheel and polishing compounds. I left a slight grain in the stainless. I think it gives a small brushed and polished look. The parts turned out great for about $30 bucks and now I can move forward with getting these parts in the door. I need to get the power window motor in the door as well as the LED push switches. I think the wing window and original mirrors will retain that nostalgic look. The shaved handels, power window and latches will give a cool rodders feel to the unit.These pics show the part in place on the division bar and the holes drilled ready for the rubber seals.Here's a few of the near finished product. I a couple of the pictures you'll see the chrome door glass frame. As short back as just a year ago LMC sold the chrome frames seperate. Now they and others I called only offer the chrome door glass frames complete with clear glass. I should have purchesed the frames last year. This is a sign of changing times. I think the 50's and some 60's after market parts are becoming limited. Get your parts now if you have your eye on something. After calling several vendors with no luck for just chrome frames for my smoked grey glass, I had to purchase the complete unit. The LMC chrome complete glass and frames are nice quality. I removed the clear glass and installed the smoked glass. I have the new clear door glass and new clear wing window glass. If someone's looking for it email me and we'll talk out a price. Don't wait because I'll be putting it on ebay in a few weeks. I also have the old wing and window frame parts if interested.Here's a couple of the Ghia. These VW are very rust prone to the rockers. 44 years and warm moist air blowing thru the rockers as designed took it's toll here. If anyone's planning on doing a VW inspect the rockers good. This is actually two cars becomming one. The '69 coupe will lend it's inner metal to a '68 convertable outer skin. Lots of work to be done here.A few pics of the truck in case you forgot about "RESTORE FOR DUMMIES"Next task will be wiring the doors. I really like the original metal interior door panel. I've been trying to keep most of the era effects of the trucks exterior as it was in 1957, ie tail gate chains, wing windows, mirrors, wood bed and so on. I'm sticking with the interior door panels to. I bought these nice LED stainless push button switches from Digi-Key. I think these are the same or similar to what you'll see in a common pedestrian elevator. These cool switches are 25mm and fit perfectly into the original panel holes. I got blue LED for the window motor and red LED to operated the electric latches. These LED's will require soldering in the proper resistors to operate. I already have the switch's pig tails soldered on and will be wiring to the doors harness thats mostly done. Stand by, next week I'll post the details as I'm working on getting the doors wired up now.I'll probably be "EDITING" this post so if you don't see activity in replies or something in "RECENT POSTS" at the main screen it may not necessarly be so. You'll probably just have to surf in and see whats up. Keep on Truck'in!Here's a detailed wiring diagram I put together. This only shows the circuit for the power windows. The power latches will be a simple circuit I'll describe later. Usually a power window switch will utilize some sort of momentary rocker switch that requires an oval hole. Usually it rocks one way for up and the other for down and when resting it positions to center. While researching switches I did see some cheesy rockers that fit a round hole but nothing appealing struck me. I don't think any where 1" round that I needed for the original interior panel. I searched for a week until I finally found the LED 25mm push switches. The only problem was it could be purchased in momentary or push on or off. With more research I found a cool alternating 12vdc relay. I worked up a circuit to place the relay parallel with a common change-over relay. The operation will be one momentary push for up and the next momentary push will drive the glass down. I bought the parts and made a bench testing circuit up and it worked smooth.This picture shows the wire loom between the cab and the door. I'm sure some of you have used this type. For those of you who haven't this loom utilizes a stainless steel braided flex hose that mounts to one side of the passage and an aluminum sleeve on the other. The braided stainless passes through the sleeve as the door closes. The '57's door doesn't rotate out at a perfect arc. It slides straight out somewhat while it arc's around. This seems to bind the operation of the stainless some. I'm keeping the brained sprayed with graphite. The aluminum reciever should wear in better and the graphite lets it slide smooth. The graphite stays in the braiding well too.In addition to the Painless Wiring harness I bought years back I scored some nice GXL auto wire on ebay to add to the door wiring. I'll get some convoluted loom for inside the door and leave plenty to flex with the door opening and closing. Here's a couple pics of the alternating relay. I could have bought the base for these that have the wire terminating screws but I decided to just buy the side mounting bracket and use 1/4" sta-cons at the terminals. Maybe in time after they prove durability I'll make some plugs and tails for them. The relays also have indicator LED lights on the relays to show position. If I remember at the end of this post I'll list all the vendors and part #'s of this stuff.This is the resistors I bought from Radio Shack. After some research using an online LED resistor calculator and pluging in 13vdc with the LED front voltage and ma rating I decided to go with a 560 ohm resistor for both blue and red LED's.I drilled some small holes in a scrape 2x6 and placed some alligator clips to help hold things to be soldered.After soldering one side of the resistor to the correct LED tab I soldered a length of wire on the other. I need to have slack and a place in the wiring to disconnect and reconnect for assembly and disassembly. For now I'll make pig tails and identify the wires for hook up.A piece of shrink tube over the resistor.All the wires needed.Some small tie straps to hold the resistor secure to the other wires and finished with larger shrink tube.After the tail was made up I tested both the LED and the switch contacts that operate the change over and alternating relays. This as you can see is the blue LED. SWEEEEEET!!!So now I set out and purchased the wire loom. I picked up a variety pack of Taylor at the local auto store. This pack has 1/4" through 3/4" in 10' lengths which is just what this part of the project needs.This is a few pics inside the door of the loom and the stainless jamb loom where the wires come in. I also used a good amount of mono-coat preserve/encapsulator inside the door previous to the work.At this point installing the switches into the panel was exciting. I love it when a plan comes together! These switches have an O ring that centers and seals the switch nicely in the existing hole.I dabbed a small bead of thread locker to keep things snug.Looking good so far!Here I'm showing the door harness and the switch pig tails positioned outside the upper hinge pocket that is concealed once the panel is set. I'll make up the connections here and slide the joint inside the door.The screws on the striker side of the door panel hold things while I can make up the connections.Here is a 4 to 1 makeup thats soldered and shrink tubed. This is for the LED B- and negative switching leads.Here shows the 2 to 1 for the LED B+ leads. As you can also see I'm using the male and female plug in crimp connectors. I thought about the weatherpac connectors and others but didn't want to purchase those to find out they wouldn't pass through the door holes at the switch locations. These connectors I'm sure are good enough. It's not like this will be sitting out in the driveway in the rain sleet and snow here. This bad boy will be a sunny day driver and garage sleeper.Here's the terminations completed. Test everything at this point. I'm looking good so far here. If you have a battery powered LED work light in the door for working, get it out now. Don't ask why I'm saying so.I shrinked a few tubes over the connectors and covered the make-up with a piece of 3/4" Taylor loom. The make-up slid nicely into the pocket. This shows the make-up at the pocket ready to fasten the panel down. Next comes the finished product.Blue for the window and red for the door release.This project took some time but I think it payed big. A white LED between the red and blue would be awesome.....oh well, I'll save that one for the next truck and make up some panels with the bead roller. Catch up to you fellas later!...Keep on truck'in.
Hello All, I've enjoyed working through tasks on this truck and I can't express how much fun it's been learning about tools and products of the trade. From the start of disassembly to now, the gratification is off the chart. I've had this truck for 12 years and endured several job changes and events in life and have been fortunate with God's grace to now finally get to near completion. I just wanted to share some of the final finishes in some detail and take advantage of this site to document the build. I recently got the front marker light assemblies reinstalled in the GMC grill. These are unique in the fact that they are much different from the Chevy's lights that comprise of a fixture complete with a lens and mounted to the fender.These picture's show the 1957 GMC front signal fixture in detail and what I did to complete and rebuild the assemblies. The grill is already installed and I documented that earlier at "restore for dummies".The fixture's shows some age but money and the economy are tight and I can't afford more chroming at this point. I figure that I can easily remove this at some point in the future and rechrome it when things are more stable.The nice thing here is that the original threads in the fixture are good. I looked at some sockets in some of the vendors catalogs and decided to conserve some funds by seeing what the local parts store had on the shelf. I found this Dorman socket with adaptor plate that fits my fixture perfectly.It mounted nicely to the fixture but I really wasn't to happy with the seal and the loose plastic sheath containing the wires on the back of the socket. I did like the fact that it has a B- wire bonding the base of the socket. Everyone by now knows most all problems with auto electrical usually leads to a bad ground and poor conductivity.I disassembled the Dorman socket and looked to see how it used the grounding wire. Here it shows the wire soldered to a ring that is compressed by the spring when a lamp is installed.This picture shows the original socket. After 55 years the wires are shot and non existant. It doesn't employ a grounding wire and relies on the mounting screw for electrical continuity. It also uses 2 small springs over each contact wire behind the contact insulator. The nice thing here is that the original rubber boots on the exterior of the socket are in good shape and still provide superior sealing qualities compared to the Dorman. The boots have two small holes formed in the back for the wires to exit.This is just another pic of the OEM socket after I removed the boot.While looking at the old and new sockets I decided to see if I could use some of both and make something work that combined the good from both. I figured since I only paid 10 dollars for the Dorman sockets there wasn't much to loose if it didn't pay off.I used the Dorman contacts and wire leads and installed them into the original insulator. I put some shrink tube on the exposed crimp tabs to ready for the small springs to be reinstalled.I filed a clean spot on the back of the OEM socket and applied some flux.I was pleased after seeing that the grounding wire soldered on the OEM socket nicely. I put two wire through one hole in the boot and one through the other. Now the assembley should seal up good and hopefully I won't see condensate building up inside the lens.A quick test to be sure no problems to this point.Some loom installed and these are ready to go back in the fixture and back in the grill member.Here I used some aligator jumpers and qickley checked that the Painless wire harness worked the lamp for park, emergency and signal before I soldered up the connections.I used a common grommet in the fender hole and completed the loom. Now I have peace of mind knowing I have a ground wire to the socket and I'm not relying on mounting bolts on the fender, grill and bumper to provide continuity. I'll need to remember to get some dielectric greese in the sockets next week.Keep on truckin'