hello, i have just picked up a awsome barn find,as stated its a 1949 chevy pickup,i have a race ready 350 ready to drop in,the truck still has the original inline 6 and am not sure which way would be the best way to drop in the v8.ive herd of guys useing the mustang 2 front end but then your frames still narrow.the other way ive herd which ive been told is less hasle and cheaper is to use a nova subframe and weld everything from the firewall down onto the truck.if anyone out there has any experiance please help me out. i need to get this rat rod together!i am allso wondering what kind of diff to use in the rear?
Good luck !
---------------------- " Experience is something you get just after you need it " -----------------
Instead of trying to redirect him to several other sites why not just try to suggest what to do with his engine swap.
tci, fatman fabrication and chassis engineering all have fantastic weld in or bolt on motor mounts and trans mounts, and still let you use your original drive line with only a u-joint change. with you rig on jack stands sittting level mock up your engine and trans then keeping the carb base level break out the tape measure, paper and pencil. Have fun and good luck...
Don't look now, but we've covered this subject many times in the magazine, and the stories are archived right here on this website under tech.
LMC Truck sells engine mounts and the only thing you will have to do is shim out the steering box and the V8 will basiclly go right in.
I'm doing a swap but I'm wondering what steering colum I should use from what car will fit I just don't want to spend 1000 I'm a new one thank
pat... the aftermarket steering columns without a key on the column are pattered after chevy vans with the key on the dashboard... think pre 76 chevy van and chevy catering truck type chassis where the key was on the dash... union city and gruman versions.. thats why they make new steering columns.. as there are only so many of those available..i think that chevy pickups up thru 72 might have the key on the column...there are 2 magazines on this site that might have articles on steering column installs..this magazine, custom classic trucks.. and also classic trucks.. i have not performed this swap... and most of the magazine articles will be on new column installs.. another issue on your swap was exhaust clearance..either here or over in classictruck forums.. that question came up about a month ago.. and i spotted some sanderson headers that the left header is angled forward to clear the steering box...you can just click on the active posts link.. go up the URL bar and delete the custom from customclassictrucks.. and hit the return .. that should take you to that forum...
i have a 53 that is sub framed and there have been many times i wished that i hadn't used a sub-frame. the motor and suspension all worked just fine right away but when i started putting my sheet metal back on and nothing fit around the new frame. i did the sub frame because it was cheaper. however once i got it installed and rebuilt the price wasnt nearly as low as i had expected. then all the adjustments to the sheet metal were/are annoying as i am still dealing with them. the bottom line is this. if you are going to drive the truck you will want it to handle as well as possible. a weld in sub frame kit will allow you to put in whatever motor you wish and the suspension that comes on the kits are far superior to the old nova or mustang that would end up as your donor. granted most of the suspension is based on the mustang but its upgraded. save up the 1500-2500 for the complete kit. once the motor is in all of the sheet metal will go back as it was prior. its worth it and i will be going this route on the next one for sure.